3-Prong (Martini)
Three claws in a shallow V, like a martini glass. The stone sits low and close to the ear.
- Good
- Sits flat, snags less, shows a lot of the stone.
- Watch
- Slightly less metal holding the diamond than a four-claw.
The setting is the metalwork that holds the diamond. Claw (prong) settings lift the stone into the light for maximum sparkle, a bezel wraps a protective rim of metal all the way around it, and a halo rings the centre stone with smaller diamonds to make it look larger.
People shop for the stone and inherit the setting, which is backwards — the setting decides how the diamond catches light, how large it looks, how likely it is to snag on a sweater, and how often you will need to have it checked.
The core trade-off is light against protection. The more metal touching the diamond, the safer it is and the less light reaches it. Claws are mostly air, so the stone glitters from every angle but sits exposed; a bezel is a continuous wall of gold, so nothing can catch it but its edge is hidden.
Match the setting to the life it will live. Hands in and out of gloves, keyboards, small children and gym bars all argue for a bezel or a low three-claw martini. A piece worn on occasions can afford a raised six-claw.
What holds the diamond, and what each choice costs you in light or protection.
Three claws in a shallow V, like a martini glass. The stone sits low and close to the ear.
The classic. Four slim claws lift the diamond so light enters from every side.
Six claws, the most secure of the open settings, and a rounder outline.
A continuous rim of gold wrapped fully around the diamond's edge.
A ring of small diamonds circling the centre stone.
Diamonds set in a groove between two walls of metal, flush with the surface.
Tiny diamonds set side by side in beads of metal, so the surface looks paved in light.
The right setting has far more to do with the wearer's hands than with the diamond.
Bezel, or a low three-prong martini
Nothing stands proud to catch on clothing, hair or door handles.
Four-prong basket
The classic compromise — plenty of light, sensible security.
Six-prong, or a halo
Maximum presence; the exposure matters less when it lives in a box.
Six-prong
More claws, more insurance against the one knock that matters.
Halo
A ring of small stones can add the appearance of half a carat.
Three-prong martini, screw back
Sits flat against the lobe and cannot work loose.
A setting is the only part of a piece of jewelry that wears out. Two habits are enough.
A bezel setting, which encircles the diamond's girdle in a continuous rim of metal. Among claw settings, six prongs are more secure than four, and four more than three.
A three-prong earring setting where the claws taper down into a shallow cone, like a martini glass. It sits low and close to the earlobe, shows a lot of the stone, and snags less than a raised basket.
Yes, noticeably. A ring of small diamonds around the centre stone can make it appear up to half a carat larger, because the eye reads the whole cluster as the stone.
About once a year for a piece worn daily. Prongs are thin and wear down with contact; a jeweller can re-tip them in minutes, and it is far cheaper than losing the stone.
A bezel, or a low-set three-prong martini. Both keep the profile close to the skin so there is nothing standing proud to catch on clothing, hair or door handles.
Last reviewed August 2026